Batenjan Makdous

Stuffed Baby Aubergines With Garlic, Walnut & Pomegranate

These are mouneh gold. Glossy, stuffed baby aubergines with punchy garlic, crunchy walnuts, tart bursts of pomegranate and a good chilli kick (if you fancy). A staple in many WANA pantries, they’re addictive straight from the jar and absolutely brilliant for last-minute hosting.

The first recorded recipe for stuffed and preserved aubergines appears in the 13th-century Syrian cookbook Kitāb al-Wuṣlah ilā al-Ḥabīb (The Connection to the Beloved), compiled by Ibn al-ʿAdīm. It includes pickled aubergines stuffed with nuts and spices.

Makdous comes from the Arabic root ك‑د‑س (k-d-s) - to press, pile, or compact - a precise linguistic match for a method that involves salting, weighting, and submerging vegetables in oil.

But here’s where it gets messy (like all good food stories):
In everyday Shami speech, we also use makbous, from the root ك‑ب‑س (k-b-s) - another word for “to compress” - to describe pressed or pickled vegetables. For example we say, kabees khiar (cucumber) or khiar makbous. Not to be confused with makbous/machboos, the spiced rice dish of the Gulf.

So what’s going on? Dialectal divergence? Parallel etymologies? A linguistic case of mistaken identity? Possibly all three?

The roots converge in meaning but diverge in memory - a fitting metaphor for our region. If you have more insight into this, I’d love to hear it.

Look for aubergines that are firm with smooth, shiny skin- tiny ones if you can find them. The yield may seem large, but trust me, they won’t last the year. I once polished off half a jar in a daze and only noticed when the stuffing leaked all over my new silk blouse. You've been warned. Don’t even think of sending me the dry cleaning bill.

Recipe from my second cookbook, The Jewelled Table, Hardie Grant, 2018.

Ingredients

• 2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) baby heirloom aubergines (eggplants)

• 4 garlic heads, cloves separated and peeled

• 1 tbsp coarse sea salt

• 15 g (½ oz) coriander (cilantro), finely chopped

• Seeds of ½ pomegranate

• 120 g (4½ oz / 1 cup) walnuts or pecans, finely chopped

• 540 ml (18 fl oz) olive oil

• 1–3 fresh red chillies, thinly sliced (optional)

Method

1. Prep the aubergines:
   Peel off the green stems, leaving the root ends intact. Steam for 5–10 minutes, or simmer in boiling water until slightly softened but not mushy.

2. Drain and press:
   Transfer to a colander and let cool and drain for 30 minutes. Cut a small vertical slit in each aubergine. Return to the colander, place a heavy bowl or plate on top, and leave overnight to draw out excess moisture.

3. Make the stuffing:
   Blitz the garlic and salt into a fine paste using a food processor or mortar and pestle. Add the coriander and pulse again. Transfer to a bowl, then stir in pomegranate seeds, walnuts, and 45 ml (1½ fl oz) of the olive oil. Mix well.

4. Stuff and jar:
   Gently open each slit and stuff with about 1 tsp of filling. Pack the aubergines into sterilised jars, layering in the chilli slices if using.

5. Invert to drain:
   Place jars at an angle, inverted onto a plate (you can lean them against a ramekin), and let sit for a few hours to release any excess juices.

6. Seal in oil:
   Flip the jars upright. Pour in the remaining oil, using a spoon to nudge the aubergines and help the oil cover them fully. Top up with more oil if needed. Wipe rims clean, seal tightly, and store in a cool, dry place for 5 days.

To serve: Bring to room temperature. Enjoy with bread, labneh, grilled meats - or straight from the jar.

Shelf life: Keeps up to 1 year unopened; 6 months in the fridge once opened.